7 Rivers in 7 Days: Final Kayaking Odyssey in Ecuador


Whereas in Ecuador, I be taught a brand new phrase in Spanish: nudillos. It means “knuckles,” and that’s precisely what a sloth is extending us—all three knuckles—as we hike alongside a jungle-lined path from Center Jondachi River. Most individuals come to Ecuador to see the Galapagos. For good motive. It’s probably the most pristine marine eco-systems on the planet. However from climbing and snowboarding volcanos to hen watching within the Amazon Basin, there’s a lot extra to do as nicely. Our journey simply so occurred to concentrate on paddling. Loads of it. Seven rivers in seven days, actually, because of the crew at Small World Adventures, whose founders have been exploring the area’s rivers for almost 30 years.

After arriving in Quito and overnighting on the Lodge San Juan De Pembo, we’re picked up within the morning by firm co-owner Darcy Gaechter. You may know her from her guide, Amazon Woman, detailing her 148-day journey in 2013 to turn out to be the primary girl to kayak the whole Amazon River.

Three-toed sloth
Eugene Buchanan

On the drive, our guides define what’s in retailer—and fortunately, this expedition gained’t be as arduous as that. We’ll be sleeping on soft resort beds, eating on homecooked fare (sure, cuy, or guinea pig is perhaps on the menu), and shuttled round to totally different rivers each day, which we’ll paddle underneath the watchful eye of licensed guides, together with Gaechter; her enterprise companion, Don Beveridge, who joined her on the Amazon; and a cadre of the highest kayakers in Ecuador. They’ll resolve what to paddle every morning primarily based on rainfall experiences.

Formulating a Recreation Plan

First, we climb to the highest of 11,394-foot-high Papallacta Go, the exact same spot crossed by conquistadores Gonzalo Pizarro and Francisco de Orellana in 1541 in an ill-fated expedition to search out the Land of Cinnamon. (Finally, Orellana would go on to finish the primary identified navigation of the whole size of the Amazon, initially named “Rio de Orellana.”)

From there, we descend into the Amazon Basin, or El Oriente, passing the city of Papallacta at 10,827 ft, the very best city within the nation and one of many highest cities accessible by automobile on Earth. Lastly, it’s right down to the city of Borja, located at 5,200 ft alongside the Rio Quijos, our residence for the following three rivers. The river’s water is funneled down from the 18,875-foot Antisana volcano, almost 13,000 vertical ft above.

We unload our gear pull on the Lodge Luxor earlier than strolling over to the boat shed, or bodega, to pick our kayaks from a well-appointed quiver (“The world’s largest choice in Ecuador,” Don says). We’ll come again every evening in a useless try and dry our gear, and pack all of it up moist once more every morning.

We additionally meet our Ecuadorian guides, Vladimir (“Blaster”), Andres, Brian, Jair, and Byron. With Don paddling right here since 1993 and Darcy since 2005, they’ve each achieved wonders in rising the native paddling neighborhood. They, together with firm co-founder Larry Vermeeren, are the de facto Godfathers of kayaking in Ecuador, even writing its guidebook The Kayaker’s Guide to Ecuador. Now in its third version, the definitive guide particulars the 77 totally different runs they’ve paddled.

Group of kayaks paddle down a calm stretch of river in Ecuador
Eugene Buchanan

The Seven-Foot Launch Take a look at

On day one, we placed on the Oyacachi, launching off a seven-foot-high drop simply three strokes into the run. Welcome to kayaking in Ecuador, I muse, after we regroup within the eddy under. With one information in entrance displaying us the road, one within the center (so our runs don’t flip into that children’ recreation of “Phone”), and a 3rd operating sweep, we make our approach down numerous horizon strains, Don ushering us by like a mom duckling. It’s good he does. From the low vantage of a kayak, each fast is a definite horizon line, which might have taken us days to scout and run on our personal.

Later that day, we dump into the Rio Quijos—confronting such Class IVs as Chuchqui (which suggests “hangover”) and Curvas Peligrosas, which promptly knocks me over. However at the least I fare higher than Jim, who rolls then will get pushed within the flawed channel, requiring a ship hike. Scour marks 40 ft excessive up the canyon’s basalt partitions present how excessive and highly effective the water can get come wet season.

Quickly we hit the take-out, mountaineering our kayaks as much as our driver, Lobo, and a cooler of Pilsner beers. Again on the resort, we luxuriate in a sizzling tub and luxuriate in a home-cooked dinner of braised rooster with fried plantains—earlier than notching a sheet for an honor system bar (20-ounce Pilsners and tequila photographs: $2!) and sharing tales of the day.

A Moist Slap within the Face

On our second day, we hit the Quijos’s El Chaco part, battling such rapids as Slap within the Face, pulsating El Toro and Gringos Revueltos (“Scrambled Foreigners”), which leaves two of our group swimming. We proceed paddling by yesterday’s Bombon part, faring higher this time in Curvas Peligrosas, and proceed down into the Decrease Quijos, marking a tiring, 17-mile day.

Kayaker slaloms through a rocky patch of whitewater in Ecuador
Eugene Buchanan

We take out about 10 miles above one of many greatest geologic anomalies on the planet: the latest disappearance of 490-foot San Rafael Falls, the tallest and most visited waterfall in Ecuador. Yep, it utterly disappeared in 2020, like somebody making off with Niagara in the course of the evening. Puff, gone. Fingers level to the $2.6 billion Coca-Codo-Sinclair hydro dam constructed 10 miles upstream—that got here on line in 2016—because the wrongdoer. Able to producing 1,500 megawatts, or 8.8 billion kilowatt-hours each year, and supplying 35 % of Ecuador’s total consumption, one concept suggests it’s taken sediment out of the river, inflicting the river to take extra out downstream.

Mixed with a brand new sinkhole showing close to the waterfall’s lip, the river scoured a brand new sieve, de-watering the nation’s most visited waterfall. (An oil highway that was degree with the river is now 400 ft greater—the river absorbing the gradient beforehand offered by the falls.)

On our third day, it rains cats and canine. Wait, that is a canine—barking on the daybreak roosters crowing away. Nonetheless, it’s misting out and we’re up early and within the bus, massaging sore shoulders and backs. Don outlines the day’s plan and we load up and drive over 8,000-foot Guacamayo Go, splitting two nationwide parks, earlier than descending to 1,800 ft within the Amazon Basin city of Tena. At present’s run is the crown jewel, Center Jondachi—a jungle-lined, pool-drop enjoyable fest that immediately rises to the highest of everybody’s checklist for the week. “It’s on the excellent degree,” Don says, advising us to put on soccer socks, if we have now them (which I don’t), for potential bugs on the takeout. Subsequent time.

A Fish-Consuming Spider as Massive as a Baseball Mitt

The horizon strains are nonstop as we observe the guides “blue angel” model, pulling into an eddy, wanting over your shoulder to look at the place the entrance particular person goes, ] then peeling out so the following paddler can take your spot. Everybody has some hassle someplace, with two extra swims tallied for the group in such rapids as Gringo Tostadas (I’m sensing a theme) and Man (Guinea Pig) Roulette. Because the river tapers off towards the tip—after 60 Class IV rapids in 12 miles—waterfalls cascade in from the banks. In a single eddy Mike spies a spider as massive as a baseball mitt, which Don says truly eats fish, earlier than it disappears into the water under us. Undoubtedly don’t need to roll right here…

Solo kayaker heads down a small whitewater shelf on an river in Ecuador
Eugene Buchanan

After a brief hike up from the takeout, we spy our knuckles good friend, a three-toed sloth giving us the slooowest three-knuckle fist pump within the books—congratulating us on our run. Overhead, Dr. Seuss-like hen nests of the “oro pendula” droop from a tree.

Up high, we load the kayaks onto the bus and crank the tunes as Lobo drives us to the Lodge Yutzos in Tena, proper on the confluence of the Pano and Tena rivers. Tonight’s “debriefing” comes at an out of doors bar, in between shouts for the Ecuador/Peru soccer recreation, which ends in a tie. The plan: Tomorrow we’ll hit the magical Rio Piatua, an hour south, if water ranges maintain. Don hopes one thing else holds as nicely. Glancing up, he sees 5 bats wriggling round on a tree department only a few ft above his head.

Day 4 has us sharing espresso with treetop monkeys subsequent to the resort’s porch. The rainfall is dynamic right here. Going with Darcy as a substitute of Don at the moment, and with none phrase from their colleague on the state of the river, we head to the Piatua anyway with fingers crossed on the flows.

Change for $1,000—in Singles

A swinging bridge to nowhere, put there by dam builders earlier than the mission stalled, marks our put-in. Blindly following her Amazon-honed line drop after drop, we monkey-see-monkey-do Darcy right down to the junction with the Piatua Blanca, beneath wealthy inexperienced banks lined with the crimson flowers of Yutzos bushes. There are approach too many rapids to tell apart. Finally, we attain a hidden take-out on the proper—there could be no approach to discover it on our personal—and carry our kayaks up a steep hill to Lobo and the bus. On the way in which again to Tena, we cease at a roadside retailer and purchase recent cacao and wayusa, Ecuador’s pure model of Crimson Bull. We pay with an assortment of small payments, primarily ones.

Ecuador changed its sucre foreign money with the U.S. greenback in 2000 after utilizing it since 1884. Again on the bus, the place Lobo passes a single-bed truck with an enormous cow standing in it, Darcy says their former companion Larry as soon as went right into a financial institution to alternate $1,000 U.S. {dollars} and got here out with two enormous duffel baggage of sucres.

Day 5 has us on a nine-mile part of the Rio Anzu, related in rock-drop character to the Piatua, solely with extra water. It’s our longest hike but, shouldering our boats to get to the put-in, however we’re rewarded with yet one more idyllic waterway—emerald inexperienced water, coursing its approach by a maze of rounded boulders. A wall of orchids cling to the cliff on the proper. It’s a step up from the Class III-IV Piatua, and a step down from the Jondachi. In different phrases, proper in our wheelhouse but once more.

The crux in Anzu Falls is a maelstrom of boulders channeling water by a number of spouts. We take a line down the far proper, per Darcy, sliding over a sequence of rocks right into a “lagoon” to scout. Eric misses the transfer and paddles over the following brink blind, inflicting Jair to present chase. He makes it to a pool far under—okay, however not with out redlining his adrenal glands. One other paddler in our group swims, and one other nails a fight roll to keep away from it.

Two solo kayakers head down a drop of whitewater on a river in Ecuador
Eugene Buchanan

Farther down, we see a rodent—a guatusa—swimming throughout the river utilizing its snout for a snorkel, popping up, stunned, in the course of our kayaks. A whirlpool sucks him again underneath and he disappears. Simply after we assume he may drown, he pops up once more, barely making it into an eddy earlier than the present careens off one other ledge. We’re not the one ones struggling within the river. “I used to be going to assist him, however they chunk fairly arduous,” says Andre as we paddle on towards the following drop.

Quickly the takeout seems on river left, the place Lobo is ready. There’s no hike out this time, thank God. Only a cooler of chilly beers. That evening we rehash tales of our previous three days within the Tena area, a common consensus rating them so as: Jondachi, Anzu, then Piatua. However that’s not truthful to Piatua, as a result of it’s probably the greatest rivers we’ve ever paddled.

One Nasty Bump on the Head

After a breakfast of rice, beans, eggs, and loads of sizzling sauce, day six sees us hike from a home alongside the highway right down to the Cosanga. The extent is low however good for its continuous Class IV. “It’s a creek-y river,” Don explains, as if that sums all of it up. Their guidebook calls it one of many prettiest Class IV rivers in all of Ecuador, however we discover that onerous to imagine after what we’ve paddled already.

Rapids resembling Begins with a Bang, Go Left or Portage, Menage a Rodeo, and Chibola (“Bump on the Head”) come as rapidly as our braces. The rain comes as nicely, falling down in sheets. It’s simple to see how rapidly rivers right here can rise. Our bump within the head comes at a fast referred to as Random Acts when Jim suggestions over and hits a rock. When he rolls up, blood pours down his cheek. Fortuitously, there’s a swinging bridge simply downstream. Darcy patches him up and calls Lobo to satisfy him and Jair after they hike out a steep path as much as the highway. They depart their kayaks stashed excessive on the financial institution; Don and Andres will hike again down and paddle them out later this afternoon. The tip consequence on the hospital: 5 stitches.

Two kayakers float on the river at the foot of a cliffside waterfall in Ecuador
Eugene Buchanan

The remainder of us paddle on, passing tall, Kauai-esque waterfalls freefalling from 1,000 ft above, the ribbons of white contrasting the primordial inexperienced. Quickly we spill into the Quijos, midway down its Baeza-to-Borja part. The water is larger and extra highly effective, with a pair rapids requiring strikes to overlook holes. Quickly we see Lobo on river left—with a freshly stitched-up Jim.

On the drive, Darcy opens up about all the things from rivers to relationships. Writing her guide was arduous, she says, including the mission took six and a half years. “I believed I’d do it in eight months, however it took rather a lot longer,” she says. “It was like operating a fast: difficult, however enjoyable attempting to determine it out. I’m extra pleased with having written the guide than kayaking the Amazon.”

Then she strikes onto Don and the third member of their celebration, David “Midge” Midgley, whose thought it was for the expedition. “I used to be very decided to not aspect with Don in any arguments we had, which generally made it further arduous on him,” she says. “Our relationship was a little bit bit broken proper after, however now it’s approach higher. If we will survive the Amazon, we will survive something.”

I really feel the identical approach concerning the markedly un-sloth-like week we simply had. Again on the Lodge Luxor, we drink beers and luxuriate in $30 massages to coax our higher our bodies into yet another day of paddling after six straight.

Smiling kayaker portages his boat across a stretch of grassy land in Ecuador river country. A handpainted
Eugene Buchanan

Our final day in Ecuador, we hit the Oyacachi and Quijos once more, this time Curvas Peligrosas getting the higher hand regardless of our expertise with it already. 4 of us get knocked over in its most important gap, which is troublesome to overlook, whereas each Ben and Jason swim out of it. Darcy counts six seconds of downtime for Ben, a stage 4 colon most cancers survivor, who’s dragged his buddies right here for this bucket-list journey. Even Andres will get knocked over. It’s as if it’s saying “Hasta luego, gringos,” earlier than we depart. One thing to recollect it by.

Again on the resort, we feebly attempt to dry out our tools whereas consuming empanadas and packing up. It doesn’t work and our gear goes into our baggage moist. Lobo shuttles us again to Quito for our late-night flight residence.

Don, whose file right here is 123 straight days of paddling (148 on the Amazon with Darcy) tags alongside to buy and choose up the following group within the morning to go proper again out.

In any case, they solely have two weeks left within the season.


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